The Gothic Quarter: Private Half-Day Tour with Barcelona Cathedral

Sanctuary in the centreOccupying the area between La Rambla, Via Laietana, the Seafront and the Ronda de Sant Pere, the Barri Gòtic is the heart of the old city of Barcelona. Many of the buildings in this area date from the Middle Ages, and some even go back as far as the rule of the Roman Empire: the ruins of the Temple of Augustus are on view, and the remains of a Roman wall can still be seen dotted around the district. What makes the district particularly special is that it is almost entirely pedestrianised. Only service vehicles like ambulances and taxis are allowed in this historic area, so you can leave the noisy traffic of the modern city behind. Gothic geeseWithin the quarter you will find many of Barcelona’s oldest and most intriguing churches. A highlight is the 14th century Catalan-Gothic Santa Maria del Pi, which boasts beautiful high pointed Gothic arches as well as the flying buttresses so notable in this style of architecture. Also worth a visit is the stunning Cathedral of St. Eulalia, which features an incredible range of gargoyles and a rather special cloister, the Font de les Oques, in which thirteen white geese are kept. In addition to churches, the Gothic Quarter holds some beautiful city squares: the Plaça Sant Jaume is the administrative centre of the whole of the Catalan area, and is home to the Palace of the Generalitat de Catalunya and City Hall. And the lack of cars doesn’t mean the district is completely quiet: the nearby Plaça Reial is a favourite spot for tourists, with superb restaurants and buzzing nightclubs.

Humble beginningsLa Rambla (or Las Ramblas) is the major artery of Barcelona. It is the most popular street in the city among both tourists and locals, and buzzes with atmosphere day and night. Beloved Spanish poet Federico García Lorca once called it ‘the only street in the world which I wish would never end.’ La Rambla makes for a pleasant walk; it is lined with lush plane trees from its starting point at Plaça de Catalunya in the city centre all the way to the Christopher Columbus monument on the seafront. It borders two of the city’s most historic neighbourhoods, the Gothic Quarter to the east and El Raval near the port. The pathway which La Rambla follows was originally a sewerage bed designed to take drainage and rainwater down from the Collserola hills, and also formed a barrier between the old walled city and the smaller settlements in El Raval. In the late 14th and early 15th centuries the old city expanded to incorporate La Rambla and El Raval into its borders, and by 1440 the stream was diverted to run outside the new city walls, leaving the track free for development. Soon it had become the thriving centre of city life with markets and festivals being held here, as well as the site of a number of religious institutions. The first trees were planted in 1703. Barcelona old and newThe pattern of the modern La Rambla’s rippled paving stones hints at the street’s origins as a rainwater channel. Stroll down La Rambla today and you will see plenty of cafés, restaurants and bars where you can sip Sangria into the late hours, as well as numerous clothes shops and kiosks selling trinkets and souvenirs; on Rambla de Sant Josep there is a lovely flower market. There are also dozens of artists and street performers (many of them human statues) plying their trade. It should be noted that the southern end of La Rambla is its seedier side, and becomes something of a red light district at night. Notable buildings include the austere Bethlehem church, which is the only remnant of the prominent Jesuit College which existed here during the Renaissance; Barcelona’s prestigious opera house the Gran Teatre del Liceu and the ancient Teatre Principal are also both located on La Rambla. It is home too to various museums, like the Centre d’Art Santa Mònica for contemporary art and the Palau de la Virreina, a striking Baroque palace which hosts short-term art shows and public events. Despite its more garish tourist attractions, the beautiful and vibrant La Rambla has endured as a cultural centre in Barcelona. Look out for the huge 1971 circular mosaic by Joan Mirò near the Liceu, and the Font de Canaletes, a 19th century fountain designed around a Victorian lamppost: according to tradition, whoever drinks from the fountain will return to the city.

This elegant square is a must-see in the Gothic quarter.

The Plaça to bePlaça de Catalunya is a huge and beautiful square in the heart of the Catalan capital, where the old town meets the modern city. It is the city centre of Barcelona and as such is surrounded by some of the busiest and most famous streets in the city, including La Rambla, Passeig de Gracià and Ronda de Sant Pere.  The construction of Plaça de Catalunya was part of the Modernist artistic mission of the 1880s, which aimed to refashion Barcelona as a contemporary city while incorporating the traditions of the past. This vast public space is celebrated for its neo-classical and avant-garde sculpture and its beautiful fountains, in addition to some stunning mosaic work on the underground part of the square; it is also an important transport hub. For over a century it has remained a favourite spot for residents of Barcelona and tourists alike. Café cultureThroughout the late 1800s and early 1900s the square was a popular haunt of the artistic elite. There were many theatres built here throughout the years, none of which have survived, as well as many cafés and restaurants where writers and artists would meet during this excitingly creative time. Like the theatres, most of these cafés were lost in the Spanish Civil War; only Café Zurich survives, which remains well worth a visit for the more nostalgic tourist. Today the plaza is surrounded by some great hotels and shopping malls, and with so many of Barcelona’s buzzing streets nearby you won’t have to look far for some great food and entertainment.

Barcelona’s freshestLa Boqueria has existed in some form since 1217, when traders set up stalls by the old city gate. This location endured as the home of the market for many years, and in 1470 expanded to include a pig market. The open-air market on Rambla de Sant Josep was officially recognised in 1827, and La Boqueria has operated there ever since, with a metal roof added in 1914. The market is a gastronomic paradise. A sense of order prevails in its lively atmosphere: colourful pyramids of fruit and vegetables, freshly squeezed fruit juices, hanging legs of cured meat, confectionery, cheeses, fresh bread, fish – it’s all here and all local. Market leadersMany of the traders are the third or fourth generation stallholders, proudly upholding Barcelona’s finest gourmet traditions. The hottest restaurants in town get all their fresh ingredients here. Indeed, La Boqueria is recognised as one of the best markets in the world, and has been the recipient of numerous awards. The food is great value as well as excellent quality. Chocolate con churros is available for breakfast, and you can get a slice of pizza straight from the oven to keep you going as you browse the beautiful and fragrant stalls. Make sure to visit La Boqueria for a real taste of Catalan living.

Gothic quarters The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia is a gorgeous Gothic cathedral in the old centre of the bustling Catalan city; it is also the seat of the Archbishop of Spain. Construction of the Cathedral began at the end of the 13th century during the reign of King James II of Aragon, and took around 150 years to complete, by which time King Alfonso V ruled the kingdom. It was built on the site where two less regal Christian churches had previously stood; a primitive paleo-Christian temple was replaced by a Romanesque Cathedral in 1058, which was in turn replaced with the majestic Gothic structure we see today. The Cathedral is dedicated to Saint Eulalia, a young virgin who became a martyr for her faith when she was killed during the persecutions of the Roman Emperor Diocletian. The story goes that she was publicly shamed by being forced to go naked in the streets, but that snow miraculously fell to cover her. She was then put in a barrel which was stuck through with knives and rolled down the street, now called Baixade de Santa Eulalia. Her tomb is in the crypt of the Cathedral. L’Ou com Balla Eulalia is also commemorated in the Font de les Oques, a well in the cloister which houses thirteen white geese - the age at which the saint was allegedly martyred. While the structure and internal decoration of the Cathedral were completed by the 15th century, its neo-Gothic façade was added at the end of the 19th century, covering the rather plain original exterior; the roof was also adorned with an impressive range of gargoyles. Mass is celebrated daily in the Cathedral and the church remains extremely popular with members of the Catholic community today. Visitors of the Cathedral can marvel at its magnificent Gothic art, Baroque altar, splendid choir and the mysterious sepulchre of St. Eulalia. If you are lucky enough to visit during the feast of Corpus Christi, you may see the Catalan tradition of the Dancing Egg - a hollowed egg suspended dancing on the jet of the cloister’s fountain.

A Time and a PlacePlaça del Rei may be small, but it is dense with history. The Royal Palace - the Palau Reial Major - has enclosed the square for centuries, cupping it from the winds of time. As such, the Plaça del Rei is imbued with Barcelona’s Middle Ages splendour, and is perhaps one of the best windows into the city’s past. The palace was the residence of the Catalan counts and King of Aragon who reigned during the Middle Ages. It dates from the 11th century, but underwent alterations in the 13th century. As a result, it’s a fine example of Gothic architecture, mingled with Romanesque elements. Set in StoneThe highlight of the palace is surely the Salo del Tinell, a magnificent banquet hall which was added in the 14th century and now houses the temporary exhibitions of the city history museum. The museum itself can be entered by the stairs to the Palau Clariana-Padellàs, which was moved to this spot stone by stone from Carrer Mercarders early in the 20th century. On the other side of the square you will find the Royal Chapel of St. Agatha, with its unique octagonal bell tower in the shape of a crown. Within the chapel is an outstanding example of Catalan Gothic art, Jaume Huguet’s Epiphany, and its ceiling is covered with striking polychrome tiles. HearsayThe steps that fan out from the corner of the square were allegedly where King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella stood to greet Christopher Columbus when he arrived home after his first voyage to the New World.

Found in the centre of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter, Plaça de Sant Jaume is the administrative nexus of Catalonia. Here, on opposite sides of the square, stand the Palace of the Generalitat of Catalonia and the City Hall, two imposing institutions which have run the region since Medieval times. It is an ancient site of importance: this is where the centre of the Roman city of Barcino was once found, along with its forum and the Temple of Augustus, of which four columns have been preserved to this day and can be seen on top of Mont Tàber, on the adjacent Paradís Street. Key WitnessTime and again throughout Barcelona’s history, the Plaça de Sant Jaume has been in the thick of it. More recently, it witnessed the proclamation of the Catalan State in 1931, and it often remains the site of separatist fervour today. It was also where the politician Josep Tarradelles returned from exile in 1977, two years after the death of dictator Franco, with the now famous words: “Citizens of Catalonia, I am here at last!” Work Hard, Play HardFar from all work and no play, the Plaça de Sant Jaume is a hot spot for festivals and dancing. Head along on Sunday mornings and you can watch locals dancing the Sardana, the national dance of Catalonia. On the day of the National Holy Jordi, 23rd April, the blue of the city police is subsumed by the red of roses: this is the day Cervantes and Shakespeare died, and tradition dictates that each man gives a woman a rose, and each woman gives a man a book. It’s a wonderful sight.